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Showing posts from October, 2011

The Dardanelles, Istanbul, the Bosphorus and into the Black Sea.

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ISTANBUL "PAMIR" When we sailed from Split on the Dalmatian coast we were faced with a dirty, difficult, and dangerous spell of work in preparing the ship to load a full cargo of wheat from the Caucasus. The dirty part was cleaning the ship after discharging 10,000 tons of black dusty coal taken out by cranes with grabs and spilling dust everywhere.The dangerous part was erecting shifting boards the length of the ship and then creating a series of wooden bins. Grain is a dangerous cargo.The angle of repose of most grain is about 50 degrees and there is an 8% settlement on passage. I well remember the laborious and sometimes precarious task of erecting shifting boards while on passage across to be ready to load on arrival in one of the grain ports. Weather was seldom ideal for straddling the tweendeck and main deck beams in order to bolt the uprights for the shifting boards and feeders to the beams, the uprights swinging around on the end of a runner while the ship is rolling...

THE WATERSHED YEAR - She must be 77 years old now!

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We arrived in Split, Yugoslavia, on Friday, 3rd September, 1954 following a good crossing of the Atlantic, bunkering in Gibraltar, and a fair weather passage through the Mediterranean and Adriatic Seas. Gibraltar was kind of disappointing - we bunkered far from the main port and the rock was big but covered in huge concrete "rain catchers" that made it drab. The Adriatic and Dalmatian coasts were spectacular, lots of attractive islands, a back drop of mountains, and great weather. It was not easy to navigate as many mined areas still existed. Split is a magnificent city with a history stretching back about two thousand years. The area had suffered from the war and there was still evidence of this. Tourism was to follow in later years but then, as in other parts of Europe, it was rebuilding its industry and infrastructure. When we visited anywhere in the 1950s it was to represent Britain and the Captain would not let any of the apprentices ashore without they were dressed in a...

THE WATERSHED YEAR - PORTLAND, MAINE, & THE UGLY AMERICAN.

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We arrived in Portland, Maine, on Thursday, 12th August, 1954 after a good passage across the Western Ocean [i.e.what West Countrymen call the Atlantic Ocean.] The approaches to that port are quite attractive; much of the New England coastline is very attractive despite some of the subsequent developments for tourism. The pilot took us up to the railhead terminal to load just over 10,000 tons of anthracite for Yugoslavia. It was apparent that this was to be a swift loading process and we would sail in a matter of hours. All American ports handle bulk cargoes with unbelievable efficiency. We then faced the US Customs & Immigration and the effects of the Ugly American. I really like America but every now and again that nation produces a prize numpty, today it is Al Gore [a Democrat] and back in the 1950's it was the Republican Senator from Wisconsin - one Joseph McCarthy. He stirred up a stupid concept that can be summed up by the phrase "Reds under the Bed" [ a parano...

THE WATERSHED YEAR - THE WORLD OF 1954

I sailed from Falmouth with a smile and faced another voyage of adventure. It's appropriate to reflect on just how the world was in 1954 as it really did impact the life of a seafarer and his family. The Prime Minister of the UK was Churchill but he was then 80 and coming to the end of his undoubted greatness. Eisenhower was the President of the US and convinced of the threat of Communism; I think he made the "domino theory" speech in this year that reckoned that if a state or country became communist then it was a just a matter of time before the country next door succumbed to socialism too. Then there was one Senator Joseph MacCarthy who came into prominence at this time; a prize clown but did he create havoc.[There will be more on this numpty later.] The Soviet Union, the USSR, had a power struggle between Malenkov [Stalin's heir] and the gradual takeover by Nikita Khrushchev. Russia became a threat again. Mao, another lunatic, ruled China and so the world was in ...

THE WATERSHED YEAR - FALMOUTH

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The beginning of my watershed year commenced when the tramp ship m/v "Eastern City" docked in Falmouth Harbour on the last day of July 1954 and closed Articles that had been opened in Glasgow in March. The crew of 34 men paid off and all went home on leave with two exceptions, the Chief Officer, 'Mortician' Davis, and the most junior guy on board - yours truly 'Ginger' Hogan. I had better explain 'Articles' - this was an agreement composed by the Board of Trade [the UK Government] during the war that made a contract between the seafarer and shipowner to serve on the owner's ship. This agreement, inter alia, tied you to the ship for TWO years as long as that vessel did not come back to the United Kingdom. Tramp ships, by nature of their business, did long voyages that could mean a trip would take you away from home for the whole two years wandering the world. The new Articles were opened and a new crew signed on August 1st 1954. The Mate's wife...

AUGUST 1954 - AUGUST 1955 - THE WATERSHED YEAR

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I had joined the tramp ship , “ Eastern City ” in Glasgow on February 23 rd 1954 and sailed away to Casablanca , Morocco , thence through the Mediterranean to the Suez Canal across the Indian Ocean through the Malacca Straits and on to Yokohama , Japan . We then went south, past Lombok and Bali, to Fremantle , Western Australia , loaded thence back across the Indian Ocean to Aden and the Suez Canal and onwards past Gibraltar and thence Bremen in Germany . This voyage ended on the last day of July, 1954, in the port of Falmouth , Cornwall . This completed my first deep voyage. Everyone paid off and went home except the Mate and yours truly an apprentice lad of 16 years of age. The year following my first voyage proved to be a watershed for many reasons and so before explaining why here is a précis of those voyages. I think you will see why when you read this. Articles were opened 1 st August 1954 we sailed from Falmouth the next day and then the following voyage ...

POLAR BEARS & BEE-KEEPING OUTFITS.

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In July 1970 I joined Offshore Marine Ltd. part of Cunard and was sent to Mulgrave , Nova Scotia , to take over the “ Island Shore ” as Relief Master and other Tug-Supply Vessels based on that port in the Canso Strait . I was appointed with Cunard’s intention for me to take over as Fleet Captain and Tow Master. There were two semi-submersible oil-rigs chartered by Shell Canada looking for oil and gas off Nova Scotia . After Christmas leave I returned to take over as Fleet Captain & Tow Master. Tina and the boys joined me later and we had an apartment in Port Hawkesbury, Cape Breton Island, and then bought a mobile home and set up home in the little lobster fishing port of Havre Boucher on mainland Nova Scotia . Lots of stories and oh yes Tina taught me to drive! This story takes up two of the odd challenges that I faced in the early days of being Fleet Manager [and there were many, I can assure you.] The Fleet consisted of 5 British ships based upon Nova Scotia [all o...

THE MAN WITH SEVEN HORSES

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This is a story about Sergeant H.R. Goode, 585, 15 Platoon, D Coy. 1/7 Battalion Royal Warwickshire Regiment following his service in the Great War 1914 - 1918. His picture can be seen in these photographs with his colleagues in that terrible conflict; he survived that war but we do not know how many others here in the photos survived. We know the name of his post and position in the Army as this is as it's listed is in the front of his prayer-book. Sergeant Goode is Tina's maternal Grandfather. He is also Grandfather to Sandra Hamilton and Jim Goode in Canada , Tina's Cousins. The Great War caused the deaths of about 1 million British men and over twenty times this number in total died. However it is often forgotten that this carnage extended to that beautiful creature the horse. Over a quarter of a million horses serving the British troops died. Britain did much to try and give the utmost care to horses and in fact the Royal Veterinary Corps was created a...

MATTIE McGRATH & HOLY WATER

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This is one of Tina's stories from the time when I was Harbour Master in Castletownbere in the 1980's; note that I say one because there are many tales from that time in West Cork. I was there helping to develop the port as one of Ireland's major fishery centres so the harbour did get Spanish, English and other foreign vessels landing that required the presence of a Customs Revenue Officer. This Officer in Castletown was one really nice young man called Matthew McGrath from Dublin. He was known as Mattie. As I have said, Mattie was a really nice young man and became virtually one of the family, he was not much older than our sons, Greg and Gerard. He introduced Gerard to Gaelic Football [a cross between rugby and soccer] and they all went out to the Wheel Inn for the local dances and fun on weekends. Sometimes Velia, who was 5 years old at the time, would persuade Mattie to take her on board the regular Spanish vessels for a dish of scrumptious french fries cooked in olive...

REAL MEN SHOP TOO

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Real men shop too, I accept that women do it much better than us nevertheless men can do it with some success and pleasure. I also accept that some men do not like shopping. Tina is really good at shopping but you had to see Nan to find a shopper par excellence. Nan could leave a shop in absolute turmoil, buy nothing, and everyone would say "what a nice lady! " as she departed. Actually the word 'shop' is a noun derived from Old Dutch that means stall but it has also become the verb to describe the act of buying goods. It will do in this blog. I do not mean that insane modern phenomenon of 'retail therapy' that is a euphemism for fiscal suicide. How daft can a person get? - they go into a store use a credit card putting 25% on the price and buy something 200% inflated like a top with D&C poorly embroidered on it! [D&C was something quite different in times past , it was spoken in hushed terms by ladies - I believe that it was not a pleasant experienc...

A RHINO ON BUTT BRIDGE

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In 1963 , Bristol Steam Navigation operated a twice weekly liner service with the m/v "Pluto" and m/v "Juno" between Bristol, Dublin, and Waterford. I was Chief Officer on the "Juno" and a colleague of mine from Portishead was on the sister ship. The voyage between the ports was approximately 14 to 16 hours depending on the tides and weather. The cargoes were mainly manufactured goods from the United Kingdom and Guinness and food or agricultural products from the Irish Republic. This was in the days before containerisation so you did get some really odd consignments. The subject of this story is very much the true tale from my colleague on the "Pluto" pictured above. It is a great story. In those days there was a liaison between Bristol Zoo in Clifton and the equally lovely Dublin Zoo in Phoenix Park. I believe this link remains to this day with both zoos engaged in conservation, breeding, and welfare of lots of species including the white rh...

A SPOTLIGHT ON LOVE IN LEIGH WOODS

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It was a warm autumn evening; it was an Indian Summer evening in the 1960s. The "Dido" was inbound to Bristol from Dublin with a cargo of Guinness, bacon, and other good stuff from Ireland. Captain Norman Llewellyn was in charge and piloting, and I was Chief Officer and steering the vessel into the approaches to the wharf just upstream from the Clifton Suspension Bridge. The Captain put on the overhead searchlight to show up the wharf that was obscured by the lights of the Portway Road below Clifton. [If you visit Bristol then it is the wharf with the bust of Samuel Plimsoll MP, the parliamentarian who introduced load lines to ships.] The picture shows this final approach to Bristol City Docks. I had the ship on course and so the Captain pushed the light handle to swing the light to starboard [right hand] so that the bright beam hit Leigh Woods on the Somerset bank of the Avon. This was to stop blinding any cars on the road. It was unbelievable! The spotlight completely h...